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I'm a DIY curator. Here I collect projects with tutorials. They can be in any languaje, please use the translator on top of the page.

Soy curador del tema DIY (Hazlo tu mismo). Aquí colecciono los proyectos con tutoriales. Pueden estar en idiomas diferentes, por favor utiliza el traductor al inicio de la página.

Je suis un conservateur de bricolage. Ici je collectionne les projets avec des tutoriels. Ils peuvent être dans n'importe quelle langue, s'il vous plaît utilisez le traducteur sur le haut de la page si vous avez besoin.

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Cheshire - Created by Alter Imaging
1 week ago | 6 notes

DIY Marbled Glassware
You’ll need:
flat bottomed glassware
variety of colorful nail polish
clear nail polish
a disposable plastic container
nail polish remover
painters tape
toothpicks



Mask off the bottom of the glass with painters tape.

Fill a disposable, plastic container with water. Open all the nail polish bottles and start dripping polish into the water, one color at a time.

Layer the colors one on top of the other. Take a toothpick and pull out the polish to create a swirly pattern, starting from the center. Work quickly as the polish will start to harden and clump up over time.

Submerge the bottom of the glass into the polish. Allow the polish to collect around the sides of the glass and pull out carefully. Little air bubbles may form but that is to be expected! Before marbling the next glass, take a clean toothpick and sweep up any excess polish from the water.

Allow to dry completely before applying a layer of clear polish.

Once everything has dried, remove the painters tape and touch up with nail polish remover and a cotton swab.

Your glowing glasses are finished! *Glassware should be hand washed only.

Bottoms up!

(tutorial adapted from Joanna Bean Martin; all images by HonestlyWTF)

DIY Marbled Glassware

You’ll need:

  • flat bottomed glassware
  • variety of colorful nail polish
  • clear nail polish
  • a disposable plastic container
  • nail polish remover
  • painters tape
  • toothpicks

Mask off the bottom of the glass with painters tape.

Fill a disposable, plastic container with water. Open all the nail polish bottles and start dripping polish into the water, one color at a time.

Layer the colors one on top of the other. Take a toothpick and pull out the polish to create a swirly pattern, starting from the center. Work quickly as the polish will start to harden and clump up over time.

Submerge the bottom of the glass into the polish. Allow the polish to collect around the sides of the glass and pull out carefully. Little air bubbles may form but that is to be expected! Before marbling the next glass, take a clean toothpick and sweep up any excess polish from the water.

Allow to dry completely before applying a layer of clear polish.

Once everything has dried, remove the painters tape and touch up with nail polish remover and a cotton swab.

Your glowing glasses are finished! *Glassware should be hand washed only.

Bottoms up!

(tutorial adapted from Joanna Bean Martin; all images by HonestlyWTF)

1 week ago | 4 notes

How to cut a bottle using household items!

I had to repeat it several times but ir really works. Also with alcohol.

(Source: youtube.com)

1 week ago | 11 notes
You can use any jar for this tutorial!  Mason jars used to come in all kinds of 
pretty colors: blue, green, and amber - I love that I can duplicate this look real easily!


Using a pourable measuring cup, add at least three times as much modpodge as water.

***The water is used to to DILUTE the color and 
make the glue a little easier to drip out before baking.  
OMIT the water for a brighter color, like mine.***  

The color on your bottle will be reflective once dry and not 
seem as deep as when it is in your measuring cup!  I used a whole LOT 
of color as you can see below.  {I think the gel food color tubes work BEST.}


Mix the mod podge solution with a regular spoon or knife.  The beauty of working with water soluble glue is that clean up is a breeze!  {Big B was a huge help with this project and he stayed totally clean!}  Pour some of the mod podge into your bottle….swirl it around to cover the entire glass on the inside…then pour the excess back into your mod podge mixture. 


Start with your lightest color, then deepen your color with progressive bottles so that you can have varied shades of blue bottles.

Put a piece of aluminum foil on a plate then cover with several  paper towels and allow the bottles to drain for a few minutes.



I wanted a contrast color, too so I added yellow mod podge to one of my bottles.


After the bottles drain on the counter for a few minutes, set it on the counter upright and WAIT. You need to let the extra paint that did not drip out, settle to the bottom.  I waited about an hour. ***If you put it in the oven when the excess mod podge  has not moved to the bottom already, it will start to get hot and the paint that is making its way down the side of the jar will harden in not so fun stripes!*** Then place them in the oven on a low rack, set the oven to it’s lowest temperature and place the jars on a low rack in the oven.  I set my oven to 170 degrees and left them in the oven  for 20+ minutes, until dry—-transparent. {Use a hot pad when you remove the bottles, they will be hot!}


Remove from the oven and cool.  Remove the gummy texture from the top of the bottles.  If you prefer a darker color, do it again in the same jar…just be sure to cool the bottle first.  If you need to use the bottles/jar for something new, soak the jar overnight with a few drops of dish soap and lots of hot water.  The longer you let it soak, the easier it will be to clean.
You can use any jar for this tutorial!  Mason jars used to come in all kinds of 
pretty colors: blue, green, and amber - I love that I can duplicate this look real easily!
Using a pourable measuring cup, add at least three times as much modpodge as water.
***The water is used to to DILUTE the color and 
make the glue a little easier to drip out before baking.  
OMIT the water for a brighter color, like mine.***  
The color on your bottle will be reflective once dry and not 
seem as deep as when it is in your measuring cup!  I used a whole LOT 
of color as you can see below.  {I think the gel food color tubes work BEST.}
Mix the mod podge solution with a regular spoon or knife.  The beauty of working with water soluble glue is that clean up is a breeze!  {Big B was a huge help with this project and he stayed totally clean!}  Pour some of the mod podge into your bottle….swirl it around to cover the entire glass on the inside…then pour the excess back into your mod podge mixture. 

Start with your lightest color, then deepen your color with progressive bottles so that you can have varied shades of blue bottles.

Put a piece of aluminum foil on a plate then cover with several
paper towels and allow the bottles to drain for a few minutes.
I wanted a contrast color, too so I added yellow mod podge to one of my bottles.
After the bottles drain on the counter for a few
minutes, set it on the counter upright and WAIT. You
need to let the extra paint that did not drip out,
settle to the bottom.  I waited about an hour.

***If you put it in the oven when the excess mod podge
 has not moved to the bottom already, it will start to get hot
and the paint that is making its way down the side
of the jar will harden in not so fun stripes!***

Then place them in the oven on a low rack,
set the oven to it’s lowest temperature and
place the jars on a low rack in the oven.  I set my
oven to 170 degrees and left them in the oven
 for 20+ minutes, until dry—-transparent.

{Use a hot pad when you remove the bottles, they will be hot!}
Remove from the oven and cool.  Remove the gummy texture from the top of the bottles.  If you prefer a darker color, do it again in the same jar…just be sure to cool the bottle first.  If you need to use the bottles/jar for something new, soak the jar overnight with a few drops of dish soap and lots of hot water.  The longer you let it soak, the easier it will be to clean.
3 weeks ago

3 weeks ago | 3 notes
If the sun seems to peer right into your window, give it something pretty to look at — and through. These translucent hanging hearts are easy to make from waxed paper and crayons. In return, sunbeams will color your room with cheer. Begin with a 12-by-16-inch sheet of waxed paper. Fold it in half along its length; unfold. Deposit wax-crayon shavings (made with a handheld pencil sharpener) evenly but not thickly across one half of the paper. Fold the clean half of the paper over the shavings. Crimp the three open edges with a 1/2-inch fold to hold the shavings. Protect your ironing surface with kraft paper. Place the waxed paper on the kraft paper, and cover it with another sheet of kraft paper. Iron lightly on medium heat, checking after every few passes. Stop when all the shavings have melted; let cool. Next, trace and cut out hearts of various sizes. String each heart with a silk thread for hanging.

If the sun seems to peer right into your window, give it something pretty to look at — and through. These translucent hanging hearts are easy to make from waxed paper and crayons. In return, sunbeams will color your room with cheer. Begin with a 12-by-16-inch sheet of waxed paper. Fold it in half along its length; unfold. Deposit wax-crayon shavings (made with a handheld pencil sharpener) evenly but not thickly across one half of the paper. Fold the clean half of the paper over the shavings. Crimp the three open edges with a 1/2-inch fold to hold the shavings. Protect your ironing surface with kraft paper. Place the waxed paper on the kraft paper, and cover it with another sheet of kraft paper. Iron lightly on medium heat, checking after every few passes. Stop when all the shavings have melted; let cool. Next, trace and cut out hearts of various sizes. String each heart with a silk thread for hanging.

3 weeks ago | 1 note

Restaurar una tabla de surfing.

Drawing inspiration from Tyler Warren’s Bar of Soap, DwC hit the shaping room to make some dust!

Apart from resins and fiber clothes all material came from the trash bin:a broken and long forgotten longboard provided the foam and a wooden wine box turned into a couple of sexy fins.

The result is a green awkward looking little board… but make no mistake! this board is a supersonic joy machine set to make up for each minute we spent on its recovering.

Love draws Love!!!

(Source: vimeo.com)

3 weeks ago
  • Question: wow tu estilo de vida es algo que desearia para mi ! me encanta como has vivido en distintos paises y eres fan de darle a las cosas un segundo uso por ti mismo, saludos & bendiciones ♥ - marlene-lizbeth
  • Answer:

    Hola marlene-lizbeth, gracias por el cumplido. Mi vida resumida puede parecer wow, pero entre los parrafos ha habido de todo. Si es cierto que he sido nómada y me encanta dar una segunda oportunidad a casi todo, incluidas las personas. Bendiciones para tí también.

3 weeks ago | 11 notes
Para crear nuestro graffiti particular necesitamos:
- Una buena cantidad de musgo
-  2 tazas de agua
- 1 o 2 cucharadas de azucar
-  Un bote de yogurt o cerveza, su función es servir de nutriente para el musgo
- Una batidora
- Una brocha
- Un spray
- Un poco de imaginación
El proceso es simple, tal y como vemos en el dibujo tenemos que mezclar los ingredientes hasta crear una masa homogénea. Una vez obtenida, la utilizaremos como si fuese una pintura normal para hacer el dibujo que queramos. Lo regamos abundantemente una vez a la semana ¡et voilà!

Para crear nuestro graffiti particular necesitamos:

- Una buena cantidad de musgo

-  2 tazas de agua

- 1 o 2 cucharadas de azucar

-  Un bote de yogurt o cerveza, su función es servir de nutriente para el musgo

- Una batidora

- Una brocha

- Un spray

- Un poco de imaginación

El proceso es simple, tal y como vemos en el dibujo tenemos que mezclar los ingredientes hasta crear una masa homogénea. Una vez obtenida, la utilizaremos como si fuese una pintura normal para hacer el dibujo que queramos. Lo regamos abundantemente una vez a la semana ¡et voilà!

3 weeks ago | 8 notes
lets get started: *1st you will need approx three strips of jersey knit fabric cut to 1” each with the length of at least 58”*2nd you will need your fingers. that’s it, oh and a pair of scissors.how many fingers you use will determine how thick your bracelet will end up. i’ll go into more detail on the 4 and 2 fingers…i’m assuming you can figure out 3 fingers! personally my favorite one is the 2 finger one…it’s the perfect thickness in my eyes.okay…*first you are going to take your 1” strips and cut on your ends a 1/4” slit.*next take your slits and line them up ends together like the picture above.*now take your bottom strip and pull it through the slits from TOP to bottom*gently pull till you get a little knot.now a lot of you will go back in time with me and totally remember doing this with yarn when we were in grade school or somewhere along that time. dont’ know if it was a california thing cause i asked my friend who grew up in florida what i should call this and she was like “what are you talking about? i’ve never made those.”*with your connected strips we are now going to weave the strip in and out of our fingers.use the next set of pictures as a guideline (next set of pictures are for 4 fingers):start off with weaving behind the pointer, in front of the middle, behind the ring, and in front of the pinky finger.then wrap it around and behind the pinky, then in front of the ring, and behind the middle, and then in front of the pointer.*you should now have all fingers “weaved upon” (ha!)*bring one big loop around to face you (from the pinky to pointer)*take your weaved loops and go over your finger and big loop like the picture above.*continue to do so with all the fingers going in order.*when you get to the end, or at the end of your first chain (at your pointer finger) make a new loop and start the process all over again!* once you get like 6 chains done, take your starting tail and gently pull (while your chain is still securely placed on your fingers!) so that you can get a good feel as to how long you need to make your chain, depending on your wrist size.now let me show you real quick how to make a two finger chain then we will proceed on how to finish your chain and how to tie it off:**because you are using less fingers you will need less strips. i just used 2 strips when i made my 2 finger bracelet*just like the 4 finger chain start with a small tail (of at least 4 inches)*starting on your ring finger, weave behind (your ring finger) and then in front of your pinky.*then come back and loop back in front of your ring finger.*come back around from behind (from the pinky side) to the front to make a big loop.*repeat the steps i showed you while doing the 4 finger bracelet.*remember to pull your tail so it makes the chain more defined and it gives you a better idea of how long you need to make your chain.*once you’ve determined you have a long enough chain, carefully pull the loops off your fingers, making sure you don’t undo any of the chain by losing the loops!*slip the extra tail into both loops.*pull all the way through, and gently tug the end.*tie off your bracelet with a knot.*cut off excess tails!so by using 2, 3, or 4 fingers, you get:side view.and top view of thickness.and now you are so ready to hit the beach, pool, lake, or heck the grocery store. cause yeah, they are that cute.

lets get started:
*1st you will need approx three strips of jersey knit fabric cut to 1” each with the length of at least 58”


*2nd you will need your fingers. that’s it, oh and a pair of scissors.

how many fingers you use will determine how thick your bracelet will end up. i’ll go into more detail on the 4 and 2 fingers…i’m assuming you can figure out 3 fingers! personally my favorite one is the 2 finger one…it’s the perfect thickness in my eyes.
okay…
*first you are going to take your 1” strips and cut on your ends a 1/4” slit.

*next take your slits and line them up ends together like the picture above.
*now take your bottom strip and pull it through the slits from TOP to bottom
*gently pull till you get a little knot.
now a lot of you will go back in time with me and totally remember doing this with yarn when we were in grade school or somewhere along that time. dont’ know if it was a california thing cause i asked my friend who grew up in florida what i should call this and she was like “what are you talking about? i’ve never made those.”

*with your connected strips we are now going to weave the strip in and out of our fingers.
use the next set of pictures as a guideline (next set of pictures are for 4 fingers):
start off with weaving behind the pointer, in front of the middle, behind the ring, and in front of the pinky finger.
then wrap it around and behind the pinky, then in front of the ring, and behind the middle, and then in front of the pointer.

*you should now have all fingers “weaved upon” (ha!)
*bring one big loop around to face you (from the pinky to pointer)
*take your weaved loops and go over your finger and big loop like the picture above.


*continue to do so with all the fingers going in order.
*when you get to the end, or at the end of your first chain (at your pointer finger) make a new loop and start the process all over again!
* once you get like 6 chains done, take your starting tail and gently pull (while your chain is still securely placed on your fingers!) so that you can get a good feel as to how long you need to make your chain, depending on your wrist size.


now let me show you real quick how to make a two finger chain then we will proceed on how to finish your chain and how to tie it off:

**because you are using less fingers you will need less strips. i just used 2 strips when i made my 2 finger bracelet

*just like the 4 finger chain start with a small tail (of at least 4 inches)
*starting on your ring finger, weave behind (your ring finger) and then in front of your pinky.
*then come back and loop back in front of your ring finger.
*come back around from behind (from the pinky side) to the front to make a big loop.
*repeat the steps i showed you while doing the 4 finger bracelet.
*remember to pull your tail so it makes the chain more defined and it gives you a better idea of how long you need to make your chain.
*once you’ve determined you have a long enough chain, carefully pull the loops off your fingers, making sure you don’t undo any of the chain by losing the loops!
*slip the extra tail into both loops.
*pull all the way through, and gently tug the end.

*tie off your bracelet with a knot.
*cut off excess tails!



so by using 2, 3, or 4 fingers, you get:

side view.
and top view of thickness.
and now you are so ready to hit the beach, pool, lake, or heck the grocery store. cause yeah, they are that cute.

3 weeks ago | 1 note
On-The-Go Memory Matching Game
I originally bought these unfinished wooden rectangles for the chore magnets I made for the kids, but ended up only using the circles. With the rectangles, I decided to make a small memory type matching game using bits of scrapbook paper. I figure they can bring it when we go out to dinner or force them to do other super boring things where they need to be entertained.The Etsy seller Less Magnets sells these in sets of 25 for $3. They have squares, circles, blocks, buttons…you name it. So much potential and great prices to boot. A few snips of the scrapbook paper and a little Mod Podge later, we had a fun matching game. The kids have been playing it all day, so I’m not even sure if it will make it out to the car in case of a boredom emergency. Here’s the finished product~

On-The-Go Memory Matching Game

I originally bought these unfinished wooden rectangles for the chore magnets I made for the kids, but ended up only using the circles. With the rectangles, I decided to make a small memory type matching game using bits of scrapbook paper. I figure they can bring it when we go out to dinner or force them to do other super boring things where they need to be entertained.

The Etsy seller Less Magnets sells these in sets of 25 for $3. They have squares, circles, blocks, buttons…you name it. So much potential and great prices to boot.

A few snips of the scrapbook paper and a little Mod Podge later, we had a fun matching game. The kids have been playing it all day, so I’m not even sure if it will make it out to the car in case of a boredom emergency.


Here’s the finished product~

3 weeks ago | 5 notes
I thought I would share how I make the leaf printed gift tags with you. They are fun to make and look so lovely! You will need: air dry clay, a rolling pin (I used a glass jar), some leaves and flowers, circular cutter, an awl (or a toothpick) and optionally, some sand paper.
Pensé compartir como hice las etiquetas de regalo con impresiones de plantas. Son divertidas de hacer y se ven tan bonitas. Necesitaréis arcilla que se seca al aire, un rodillo (yo usé un bote de cristal), unas hojas y flores, un molde circular, un punzón (o un palillo) y si quieres, una lija.

Roll the clay into a ball.Haz una bola con el barro.

Flatten and roll out the clay with the rolling pin.Aplana y estira la arcilla con el rodillo.
 Make sure the clay has an even thickness of about 3mm.Asegura que la arcilla tenga un grosor nivelado de unos 3mm.

Place the leaf on the clay.Pon la hoja sobre la arcilla.

With the rolling pin press the leaf into the clay.Con el rodillo presiona sobre la hoja para que quede impresa en la arcilla.

With care, so that you don’t touch the clay, remove the leaf.Con cuidado, para que no toques la arcilla, quita la hoja.
Take the circular cutter, check exactly where you want the leaf to lie and press down.Toma el molde circular, escoge donde quieres que quede la impresión y presiona.
With the thick end of the toothpick, make a hole at the top of the tag.Con el lado grueso de un palillo haz un agujero en la parte superior de la etiqueta.

Alternatively, make a hole with the awl.Como alternativa, puedes hacer el agujero con el punzón.
Don’t worry if the back doesn’t look perfect. We will fix this later.No te preocupes si la parte de atras no se ve perfecta. Ya lo arreglaremos.
Leave the tags to dry, about 12 hours on each side.Deja que las etiquetas se sequen, unas 12 horas cada lado.
Depending on whether you like a rustic result, you can leave the tags as they are, otherwise you can use sand paper to sand down the edges and the back of the hole.Si te gusta el estilo rústico, puedes dejar las etiquetas tal cual, si no, puedes alijar los bordes y  la parte de atrás para que se vean mas terminadas.
Use it to decorate a gift, wear as a necklace, tie round some flowers or a bottle of wine or simply as a decoration!Usala para decorar un regalo, llevar como collar, atar alrededor de unas flores o una botella o simplemente como decoración.

I thought I would share how I make the leaf printed gift tags with you. They are fun to make and look so lovely! You will need: air dry clay, a rolling pin (I used a glass jar), some leaves and flowers, circular cutter, an awl (or a toothpick) and optionally, some sand paper.

Pensé compartir como hice las etiquetas de regalo con impresiones de plantas. Son divertidas de hacer y se ven tan bonitas. Necesitaréis arcilla que se seca al aire, un rodillo (yo usé un bote de cristal), unas hojas y flores, un molde circular, un punzón (o un palillo) y si quieres, una lija.

Roll the clay into a ball.
Haz una bola con el barro.

Flatten and roll out the clay with the rolling pin.
Aplana y estira la arcilla con el rodillo.


Make sure the clay has an even thickness of about 3mm.
Asegura que la arcilla tenga un grosor nivelado de unos 3mm.

Place the leaf on the clay.
Pon la hoja sobre la arcilla.

With the rolling pin press the leaf into the clay.
Con el rodillo presiona sobre la hoja para que quede impresa en la arcilla.

With care, so that you don’t touch the clay, remove the leaf.
Con cuidado, para que no toques la arcilla, quita la hoja.

Take the circular cutter, check exactly where you want the leaf to lie and press down.
Toma el molde circular, escoge donde quieres que quede la impresión y presiona.

With the thick end of the toothpick, make a hole at the top of the tag.
Con el lado grueso de un palillo haz un agujero en la parte superior de la etiqueta.

Alternatively, make a hole with the awl.
Como alternativa, puedes hacer el agujero con el punzón.

Don’t worry if the back doesn’t look perfect. We will fix this later.
No te preocupes si la parte de atras no se ve perfecta. Ya lo arreglaremos.

Leave the tags to dry, about 12 hours on each side.
Deja que las etiquetas se sequen, unas 12 horas cada lado.

Depending on whether you like a rustic result, you can leave the tags as they are, otherwise you can use sand paper to sand down the edges and the back of the hole.
Si te gusta el estilo rústico, puedes dejar las etiquetas tal cual, si no, puedes alijar los bordes y  la parte de atrás para que se vean mas terminadas.

Use it to decorate a gift, wear as a necklace, tie round some flowers or a bottle of wine or simply as a decoration!
Usala para decorar un regalo, llevar como collar, atar alrededor de unas flores o una botella o simplemente como decoración.

4 weeks ago | 4 notes
DIY bleach printed jumpsuits
Hello hello!
It’s me, Aude, from Heodeza again. I’m very excited to show you a versatile DIY today. I’ve chosen to print a set of cute little jumpsuits, but you could actually use the same method on lots of other materials: t-shirts, shorts, plain fabric… anything really! The only thing you should keep in mind is that the bleach is going to take away some of the colour of the fabric. Dark tones therefore usually work better, but bright colours should be fine too.
It’s me, Aude, from Heodeza again. I’m very excited to show you a versatile DIY today. I’ve chosen to print a set of cute little jumpsuits, but you could actually use the same method on lots of other materials: t-shirts, shorts, plain fabric… anything really! The only thing you should keep in mind is that the bleach is going to take away some of the colour of the fabric. Dark tones therefore usually work better, but bright colours should be fine too.
Please note that bleach is a toxic substance and that you should therefore be extra careful when handling it. Make sure to work in a well ventilated area as this project can get a little smelly.
Here’s what you’ll need:

These materials will allow you to make a set with three different jumpsuits.

For Jumpsuit 1 – polka dots:
Step 1: Place a flat protecting surface inside the jumpsuit (newspaper or cardboard will do the trick) to stop the bleach from leaking through to the back.
Step 2: Pour a small quantity of bleach in a flat container and softly dab the end of your cork in it. Make sure there isn’t too much bleach on the cork – it could drip on the jumpsuit and make unwanted marks. The bleach I used also tended to make ‘threads’ when I lifted the cork up, so I had to be extra careful that they were gone before moving my hand towards the fabric.

Step 3: Press the bleached cork down on the jumpsuit to make a dot. You will see the colour change slowly as time passes.
Step 4: Cover the whole front of the jumpsuit with cork-dots. Let dry for a while. Turn over and repeat on the back.
Step 5: Once the back of the jumpsuit is ready and has dried too, remove the flat protective surface you had inserted in the jumpsuit and rinse the fabric thoroughly with cold water. Wash in your usual laundry cycle before wearing.
For jumpsuit 2 – starry night spots:
Step 1: Place a flat protecting surface inside the jumpsuit (newspaper or cardboard will do the trick) to stop the bleach from leaking through to the back.
Step 2: Pour a small quantity of bleach in a container and dip a cotton bud in the liquid. Make sure there isn’t too much bleach on the cotton bud so that it doesn’t drip on the fabric.

Step 3: Press the bleached cotton bud onto the jumpsuit to make spots. You will see the colour change slowly as time passes.
Step 4: Cover the whole front of the jumpsuit with cotton bud spots. Let dry for a while. Turn over and repeat on the back.
Step 5: Once the back of the jumpsuit is ready and has dried too, remove the flat protective surface you had inserted in the jumpsuit and rinse the fabric thoroughly with cold water. Wash in your usual laundry cycle before wearing.
For jumpsuit 3 – sailor stripes:
Step 1: Place a flat protecting surface inside the jumpsuit (newspaper or cardboard will do the trick) to stop the bleach from leaking through to the back.

Step 2: Apply strips of masking tape on the front of the jumpsuit, leaving lines of your preferred width. Make sure to protect the edges of the lines too (in the collar, sleeves and leg areas).

Step 3: Pour a small quantity of bleach in a container. With the paintbrush, apply bleach on the surfaces between the strips of tape. Try not to take too much bleach in one go as it will try and seep under the tape if a spot is too wet.
Step 4: Once the jumpsuit is dry, remove the masking tape and the flat protective surface you had inserted in the jumpsuit. Rinse the fabric thoroughly with cold water. Wash in your usual laundry cycle before wearing.

There you go: three adorable little jumpsuits to give to a friend who just had a baby, or to make for your own little one!

This technique also works with other motifs of course. You can see other prints that I’ve made with homemade stamps here and here.

DIY bleach printed jumpsuits

Hello hello!

It’s me, Aude, from Heodeza again. I’m very excited to show you a versatile DIY today. I’ve chosen to print a set of cute little jumpsuits, but you could actually use the same method on lots of other materials: t-shirts, shorts, plain fabric… anything really! The only thing you should keep in mind is that the bleach is going to take away some of the colour of the fabric. Dark tones therefore usually work better, but bright colours should be fine too.

It’s me, Aude, from Heodeza again. I’m very excited to show you a versatile DIY today. I’ve chosen to print a set of cute little jumpsuits, but you could actually use the same method on lots of other materials: t-shirts, shorts, plain fabric… anything really! The only thing you should keep in mind is that the bleach is going to take away some of the colour of the fabric. Dark tones therefore usually work better, but bright colours should be fine too.

Please note that bleach is a toxic substance and that you should therefore be extra careful when handling it. Make sure to work in a well ventilated area as this project can get a little smelly.

Here’s what you’ll need:

These materials will allow you to make a set with three different jumpsuits.

For Jumpsuit 1 – polka dots:

Step 1: Place a flat protecting surface inside the jumpsuit (newspaper or cardboard will do the trick) to stop the bleach from leaking through to the back.

Step 2: Pour a small quantity of bleach in a flat container and softly dab the end of your cork in it. Make sure there isn’t too much bleach on the cork – it could drip on the jumpsuit and make unwanted marks. The bleach I used also tended to make ‘threads’ when I lifted the cork up, so I had to be extra careful that they were gone before moving my hand towards the fabric.

Step 3: Press the bleached cork down on the jumpsuit to make a dot. You will see the colour change slowly as time passes.

Step 4: Cover the whole front of the jumpsuit with cork-dots. Let dry for a while. Turn over and repeat on the back.

Step 5: Once the back of the jumpsuit is ready and has dried too, remove the flat protective surface you had inserted in the jumpsuit and rinse the fabric thoroughly with cold water. Wash in your usual laundry cycle before wearing.

For jumpsuit 2 – starry night spots:

Step 1: Place a flat protecting surface inside the jumpsuit (newspaper or cardboard will do the trick) to stop the bleach from leaking through to the back.

Step 2: Pour a small quantity of bleach in a container and dip a cotton bud in the liquid. Make sure there isn’t too much bleach on the cotton bud so that it doesn’t drip on the fabric.

Step 3: Press the bleached cotton bud onto the jumpsuit to make spots. You will see the colour change slowly as time passes.

Step 4: Cover the whole front of the jumpsuit with cotton bud spots. Let dry for a while. Turn over and repeat on the back.

Step 5: Once the back of the jumpsuit is ready and has dried too, remove the flat protective surface you had inserted in the jumpsuit and rinse the fabric thoroughly with cold water. Wash in your usual laundry cycle before wearing.

For jumpsuit 3 – sailor stripes:

Step 1: Place a flat protecting surface inside the jumpsuit (newspaper or cardboard will do the trick) to stop the bleach from leaking through to the back.

Step 2: Apply strips of masking tape on the front of the jumpsuit, leaving lines of your preferred width. Make sure to protect the edges of the lines too (in the collar, sleeves and leg areas).

Step 3: Pour a small quantity of bleach in a container. With the paintbrush, apply bleach on the surfaces between the strips of tape. Try not to take too much bleach in one go as it will try and seep under the tape if a spot is too wet.

Step 4: Once the jumpsuit is dry, remove the masking tape and the flat protective surface you had inserted in the jumpsuit. Rinse the fabric thoroughly with cold water. Wash in your usual laundry cycle before wearing.

There you go: three adorable little jumpsuits to give to a friend who just had a baby, or to make for your own little one!

This technique also works with other motifs of course. You can see other prints that I’ve made with homemade stamps here and here.

4 weeks ago | 8 notes
DIY Watercolour Notebooks





I love the basic Moleskin Notebooks.. there’s something truly beautiful about their simplicity. My favourite ones are the kraft cover, creamy paper, stitched binding variety. I always seem to have a few hanging around the house with bits and pieces written in them, and when I found these two tucked in a drawer I thought it might be fun to customise them. I fully understand that customising them has taken away from the simplicity I was just talking about, but hey.. it was fun and they look pretty!

So, here’s what you’ll need:
- Some blank-cover notebooks (I used Moleskin pocket-size) - Paint brushes in various sizes/shapes - Watercolour paints - A tray you can mix your colours in - A cup with some water in it - A blank piece of paper or cardboard

Step 1: Put some of your chosen paint into your tray (you won’t need too much), and mix in some water with each.
Step 2: My flowers are a combination of just dabbing the brush onto the card, and making short strokes. If you’re not super experienced with watercolour (like me!), a good place to start is by experimenting with your brushes and paints on a blank piece card. Dab your brushes from different angles, drag them, press them lightly and heavily. Doing this will just help you get an idea of the different ‘flowers’ you can get with the different brushes. You may also notice that you’ll get different results with more/less water, so just play around.
Step 3: Once you’re feeling confident, start working on your notebook. It’s best to start from the top of your cover and work down so you aren’t dragging your hand through wet paint. I did my flowers in stages – blue/orange flowers (the biggest ones) first, then layering the rest over that. Wait for each layer to dry before doing the next. My final colour on each was a metallic gold watercolour, which made everything really stand out.

And that’s pretty much it! The colours and patterns you can do are only limited by your imagination.. have fun with it!

Note: I’m not an experienced watercolour artist, so I can’t guarantee that my methods in watercolour are really correct! I’m just going with trial and error :)

DIY Watercolour Notebooks

I love the basic Moleskin Notebooks.. there’s something truly beautiful about their simplicity. My favourite ones are the kraft cover, creamy paper, stitched binding variety. I always seem to have a few hanging around the house with bits and pieces written in them, and when I found these two tucked in a drawer I thought it might be fun to customise them. I fully understand that customising them has taken away from the simplicity I was just talking about, but hey.. it was fun and they look pretty!

So, here’s what you’ll need:

- Some blank-cover notebooks (I used Moleskin pocket-size)
- Paint brushes in various sizes/shapes
- Watercolour paints
- A tray you can mix your colours in
- A cup with some water in it
- A blank piece of paper or cardboard

Step 1: Put some of your chosen paint into your tray (you won’t need too much), and mix in some water with each.

Step 2: My flowers are a combination of just dabbing the brush onto the card, and making short strokes. If you’re not super experienced with watercolour (like me!), a good place to start is by experimenting with your brushes and paints on a blank piece card. Dab your brushes from different angles, drag them, press them lightly and heavily. Doing this will just help you get an idea of the different ‘flowers’ you can get with the different brushes. You may also notice that you’ll get different results with more/less water, so just play around.

Step 3: Once you’re feeling confident, start working on your notebook. It’s best to start from the top of your cover and work down so you aren’t dragging your hand through wet paint. I did my flowers in stages – blue/orange flowers (the biggest ones) first, then layering the rest over that. Wait for each layer to dry before doing the next. My final colour on each was a metallic gold watercolour, which made everything really stand out.

And that’s pretty much it! The colours and patterns you can do are only limited by your imagination.. have fun with it!

Note: I’m not an experienced watercolour artist, so I can’t guarantee that my methods in watercolour are really correct! I’m just going with trial and error :)

1 month ago | 7 notes
DIY Houses by Night

Ready for a bit of DIY love? :)A little town at night.. isn’t it sweet?!

There are a few tricks to making this DIY a success, all to do with finding the perfect image.

1. What you’re looking for is a picture of a house/castle/building that’s taken front-on (perspective works, but not as well). You could take it from your favourite magazine, an old calendar, or even print some from the internet. Up to you! In fact, you could even print a photo of your house if you have one! 2. The print needs to have a bit of space either side of the house to wrap around to the back of the votive. 3. It’s best to choose a picture that is higher in the middle than at the sides, and sides that are about the same height. 4. Choose a house that has some windows visible. 5. If possible, find a picture that has nothing printed on the back. If you can’t, not to worry – it could add a nice effect (like mine did)!

I was lucky enough to have found some old photo books at a market in Germany that hold some of the coolest black and white photos from the War era.. perfect for a project like this one!

Here’s what you’ll need:



Step 1: You want to start cutting and finish cutting at around the same height on either side of your picture. Use the scissors to cut straight in to where your house begins, cut around the top of the house, and cut straight back out to the edge at around the same height as you cut in. Make sense? Maybe this will help:



Step 2: Trim away any other areas you don’t want, but don’t trim the sides yet. Step 3: Using your Xacto knife and a cutting mat, carefully cut out any windows you want the light to shine through. I found at this stage (because my paper was a bit fragile) it was easiest to press the knife in, rather than drag it.


Step 4: Wrap the image into a cylinder (size is up to you) and sticky tape it together. Trim around the top if it doesn’t quite match, as well as any excess where you joined it. Step 5: Add your battery operated tea light, and wait until it gets dark!

Note: Because paper (of course) is highly flammable, the use of battery operated candles over real ones is imperative. However, if you would rather use real candles, try wrapping the image around the outside of a small glass jar and use that to hold your candle (but still keep an eye on it) :)

DIY Houses by Night

Ready for a bit of DIY love? :)
A little town at night.. isn’t it sweet?!

There are a few tricks to making this DIY a success, all to do with finding the perfect image.

1. What you’re looking for is a picture of a house/castle/building that’s taken front-on (perspective works, but not as well). You could take it from your favourite magazine, an old calendar, or even print some from the internet. Up to you! In fact, you could even print a photo of your house if you have one!
2. The print needs to have a bit of space either side of the house to wrap around to the back of the votive.
3. It’s best to choose a picture that is higher in the middle than at the sides, and sides that are about the same height.
4. Choose a house that has some windows visible.
5. If possible, find a picture that has nothing printed on the back. If you can’t, not to worry – it could add a nice effect (like mine did)!

I was lucky enough to have found some old photo books at a market in Germany that hold some of the coolest black and white photos from the War era.. perfect for a project like this one!

Here’s what you’ll need:

Step 1: You want to start cutting and finish cutting at around the same height on either side of your picture. Use the scissors to cut straight in to where your house begins, cut around the top of the house, and cut straight back out to the edge at around the same height as you cut in. Make sense? Maybe this will help:

Step 2: Trim away any other areas you don’t want, but don’t trim the sides yet.
Step 3: Using your Xacto knife and a cutting mat, carefully cut out any windows you want the light to shine through. I found at this stage (because my paper was a bit fragile) it was easiest to press the knife in, rather than drag it.

Step 4: Wrap the image into a cylinder (size is up to you) and sticky tape it together. Trim around the top if it doesn’t quite match, as well as any excess where you joined it.
Step 5: Add your battery operated tea light, and wait until it gets dark!

Note: Because paper (of course) is highly flammable, the use of battery operated candles over real ones is imperative. However, if you would rather use real candles, try wrapping the image around the outside of a small glass jar and use that to hold your candle (but still keep an eye on it) :)

1 month ago | 10 notes
First of all let’s list the materials:



Plastic cups: I used nearly 250 cups. These need to be SMALL. The smaller the cups the smaller the curvature they create (hence the smaller the sphere). I tried making it with normal size cups and, unless you’ve got a palace, I would recommend not to try it. You could fit inside the sphere they would create. 



Paper clips: these are the “bonding” material. Make sure they’re not too small and weak, remember your lamp will be based on their strength (I had to replace a few)… How many you might ask? Well, I ran out of them a couple of times. I would say 300 will do. I used metallic ones because I liked the idea of them being seen. Some people have commented they would have used white ones. Up to your taste!



Light cord, light bulb, switch and light bulb holder. You can find these in places like Wilkinson. Alternatively you can use an old lamp’s cord and recycle, but I didn’t have any so I did it from scratch and learned about the fun world of electricals, and surprisingly it’s dead easy!! (got the picture of the light cord from a cool light cords website)



Some hanging material: I used the cardboard tube that comes in the drycleaner’s hangers and some medium-thin string.





Now, the process:



1. Start clipping 2 cups together with a paper clip. The third cup will make a triangle with the first 2.









2. Just continue clipping cups together. I recommend Jack Johnson, a cold beer and a friend while you’re doing this. When you get to nearly half a sphere you definitely require a friend to hold the shape while you continue clipping and clipping, since at this stage the cups’ shape gets a bit unstable.











3. Stop when you get to “a bit more than half a sphere” to work on the electrics!! Wire the plug and the light bulb holder with the light cord. You need a screwdriver to unscrew the screws. Usually plugs come with a diagram of which colour goes where, so just follow it.











4. Now you have to decide how your lamp is going to hang… I used the blackboard tube that comes in the dry cleaner’s hangers in an attempt to use some recycled material. Whatever you use it has to be a bar that is light and strong at the same time (two bars recommended for more stability but I had only one). It also has to be long enough to go from one side of your sphere to the other. I tied the light cord to the bar with a thin string and introduced the bar inside the lamp between the cups (there has to be enough room for this, obviously). I’ve done a diagram of this since the pictures that I took were not very clear:











5. When you get to the end, hold it to see where you should put the last cups.








One important thing, almost THE MOST IMPORTANT thing!! Make sure your light bulb is NOT “incandescent”, because this type gets pretty hot and would probably melt the cups. LED and halogens (I used the later one) are fine because they don’t generate as much heat. If you have questions ask in the shops, but please make sure you don’t burn your lamp the first time you use it!!


I love my new lamp and just can’t wait to put it up!!! It creates a beautiful light and amazing patterns on the wall… Hope this helps you create your own. Happy crafting!!!
First of all let’s list the materials:

Plastic cups: I used nearly 250 cups. These need to be SMALL. The smaller the cups the smaller the curvature they create (hence the smaller the sphere). I tried making it with normal size cups and, unless you’ve got a palace, I would recommend not to try it. You could fit inside the sphere they would create.

Paper clips: these are the “bonding” material. Make sure they’re not too small and weak, remember your lamp will be based on their strength (I had to replace a few)… How many you might ask? Well, I ran out of them a couple of times. I would say 300 will do. I used metallic ones because I liked the idea of them being seen. Some people have commented they would have used white ones. Up to your taste!

Light cord, light bulb, switch and light bulb holder. You can find these in places like Wilkinson. Alternatively you can use an old lamp’s cord and recycle, but I didn’t have any so I did it from scratch and learned about the fun world of electricals, and surprisingly it’s dead easy!! (got the picture of the light cord from a cool light cords website)

Some hanging material: I used the cardboard tube that comes in the drycleaner’s hangers and some medium-thin string.


Now, the process:

1. Start clipping 2 cups together with a paper clip. The third cup will make a triangle with the first 2.



2. Just continue clipping cups together. I recommend Jack Johnson, a cold beer and a friend while you’re doing this. When you get to nearly half a sphere you definitely require a friend to hold the shape while you continue clipping and clipping, since at this stage the cups’ shape gets a bit unstable.




3. Stop when you get to “a bit more than half a sphere” to work on the electrics!! Wire the plug and the light bulb holder with the light cord. You need a screwdriver to unscrew the screws. Usually plugs come with a diagram of which colour goes where, so just follow it.




4. Now you have to decide how your lamp is going to hang… I used the blackboard tube that comes in the dry cleaner’s hangers in an attempt to use some recycled material. Whatever you use it has to be a bar that is light and strong at the same time (two bars recommended for more stability but I had only one). It also has to be long enough to go from one side of your sphere to the other. I tied the light cord to the bar with a thin string and introduced the bar inside the lamp between the cups (there has to be enough room for this, obviously). I’ve done a diagram of this since the pictures that I took were not very clear:




5. When you get to the end, hold it to see where you should put the last cups.


One important thing, almost THE MOST IMPORTANT thing!! Make sure your light bulb is NOT “incandescent”, because this type gets pretty hot and would probably melt the cups. LED and halogens (I used the later one) are fine because they don’t generate as much heat. If you have questions ask in the shops, but please make sure you don’t burn your lamp the first time you use it!!
I love my new lamp and just can’t wait to put it up!!! It creates a beautiful light and amazing patterns on the wall… Hope this helps you create your own. Happy crafting!!!