You need to dedicate only two-thirds of your closet to hanging rods. To maximize that space, mount two of them—one well above eye level for longer garments and one a little more than 3 feet off the ground for shorter (or foldable) ones. Position both at least 1 foot from the back wall.
Designate a container (a bowl or bin on a shelf, or a pouch that hangs on the inside of the door) to serve as a catchall for loose change, receipts, or other items that accumulate in your pockets.
You need to dedicate only two-thirds of your closet to hanging rods. To maximize that space, mount two of them—one well above eye level for longer garments and one a little more than 3 feet off the ground for shorter (or foldable) ones. Position both at least 1 foot from the back wall.
Designate a container (a bowl or bin on a shelf, or a pouch that hangs on the inside of the door) to serve as a catchall for loose change, receipts, or other items that accumulate in your pockets.
Closets should be wired for lighting. If yours isn’t, use battery-powered stick-up LED pucks, such as Sylvania’s Dot-its along the top and under shelves so that you can find what you’re looking for.
Avoid jumbled piles of folded clothes by limiting shelf stacks to a height of 10 inches and partitioning them with thin bookends, like Highsmith’s steel versions
Only things that can be easily lifted or rolled away, such as suitcases, should be stored directly on the floor; everything else should sit at least 1 inch off the ground to allow for regular vacuuming.
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